Monday, January 10, 2011

Surviving the Snow in Downtown Knoxville without a Grocery Store

How is that possible? Everyone knows the drill in Knoxville: Snowflakes appear on the extended forecast and we panic, heading quickly to our local grocery store for milk, eggs and bread. Need it or not, it's just what we do. So what happens to hapless urbanites without a grocery store? We take pictures. I realized that most people never see Knoxville in the snow because we rarely have any and because when it snows mostly residents are the brave souls shuffling about.

I'm dividing the pictures into two groups because there are so many of them. I'll start with my swing through the northern half of downtown. I didn't make it to Gay Street and I only took one aerial view of Market Square. I tried to include some things I may have missed before. Tomorrow I'll post the southern swing through downtown.
Mews between row homes of Kendrick Place, Knoxville, January 10, 2011
Front view of Kendrick Place, Knoxville, January 10, 2011
I started with the courtyard, or mews as residents call it, at Kendrick Place. These brownstones, which often remind visitors of Georgetown, Philadelphia or Boston depending on the background of the visitor are beautiful in the snowy winter and the floral spring. You should check them out if you never noticed them nestled up against Chesapeake's.

Memorial to Firemen, Downtown Fire Station, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Old City Hall, Knoxville, January 10, 2011
I walked from there past the Downtown Fire Station to the Old City Hall, ca 1846, which was later a Civil War Hospital, an "insane asylum" (see A Death in the Family (Penguin Classics) ), an early version of the Tennessee School for the Deaf and currently the home to the Lincoln Memorial University Law School, which won Pete DeBusk an award from Knox Heritage for its renovation in 2010.

View of Market Square from TVA Plaza, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Ryan's Row, Vine Avenue, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Front of Immaculate Conception Catholic Church, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Immaculate Conception Catholic Church
After a stop for an aerial view of Market Square from the TVA Plaza, which is supposed to be public access, I passed Ryan's Row, row homes built in anticipation of the 1982 World's Fair and a quiet, elegant secret atop a bluff over looking the Valley. I attempted a few shots of the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church, which is very difficult to photograph because the bluff drops off in front of it making it difficult to move to a sufficient distance away for a good view.

100 block of Gay Street, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Train yard and depot, downtown Knoxville, January 10, 2011
I took shots of the 100 block of Gay Street and the train yard with the old Depot in the background, then moved down Jackson Avenue to the Old City, past Patrick Sullivan's and ending this part of the swing with my favorite sight of all: the inside of Java where I warmed up with a delicious cup of coffee served perfectly by Lizzie.

View east on Jackson Avenue, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Patrick Sullivan's, Old City, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

Lizzie serves the java at Java, Old City, Knoxville, January 10, 2011

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Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Best and (not-so-much) worst coffee at downtown coffee shops

This is a little painful to write. Why? I love coffee shops. I like their personalities and the people who work in them. I love the smells of coffee and confections, the sounds of espresso machines and animated conversation. I love them when they are funky or modern, when the baristas are friendly older folks or younger ones with tattoos and piercings. It's more than the coffee, it's the whole experience. Throw in some excellent music and I'm helpless.

That said, I really like what I find in the downtown coffee scene. While the coffee at the restaurants is very spotty, the places devoted primarily to that most wonderful drink are excellent, with one unfortunate exception.

For the sake of this discussion, I didn't consider Starbucks in the Hilton. I think of it as in, but not of downtown. I'm delighted when I find one in a hotel when I'm traveling, but for this story, I didn't mention them. Higher Grounds got eliminated because as many times as I have tried, I can never catch them open. Do they really serve coffee there? Also, not downtown, but close is the Golden Roast, which has excellent coffee, but they are more of a UT spot.

Who knew there would ever be so many coffee shops in the entire county, let alone downtown, that you could eliminate some and still have a conversation?

Which brings us to the coffee houses in question: Coffee and Chocolate, Downtown Grind, Night Owl, Old City Java, and Remedy. Each has something to recommend them. All but one has very good coffee. Each gets extra points for various reasons. So, here are the reasons you should go to all but one of them, but at the end I'll man-up and say which, in my humble opinion, has the best coffee.

Coffee and Chocolate, Union Avenue, Knoxville
 Coffee and Chocolate has excellent coffee. The particular blend changes with the day and sometimes with the person brewing the coffee. The coffee is priced reasonably, but you are going to pay if you want some of their amazing chocolate. The chocolate is what sets them apart (secret: it's imported from the Chocolate Factory) and you can get it in a very large number of forms, but it is expensive. The seating is somewhat limited, but usually adequate. They have outdoor seating, but the sidewalk is small and most of the time people are parked uncomfortably close to the store. I wish Union Avenue would be closed to traffic from Gay to Locust, but I'm dreaming. Its location - around the corner from Market Square - is a big plus if that is the center of your downtown universe. The music played varies, but it is always good.

Downtown Grind, Gay Street, Knoxville
 Downtown Grind is an interesting case. It is housed in the Phoenix Building on the 400 block of Gay Street. It is paired with Prestige Cleaners. The employees often work both places and there is no separation, other than counters between the two businesses. My assumption would be that the coffee would be terrible. This could never work, right? Wrong. The coffee is very flavorful and the staff is very friendly. Cynthia Markert works there part-time and her art is on display. They sell confections, but I've had them so rarely, I can't evaluate them fairly. There is limited seating inside, but additional seating in the lobby and outside takes care of the traffic adequately and this is one of the best places among the four for people-watching, since it has a great view of Gay Street foot traffic. It's easy to forget that you are in a cleaner's, but if you have that dress or pair of pants that needs to be pressed, well, that's one-stop shopping. Strangely, if they have a website or Facebook page, I didn't see it.


Night Owl Cafe, Central Avenue, Old City, Knoxville
 Night Owl is, in my opinion, the only one to avoid. The coffee was sub-par. I'd say it tasted old when I visited. The place also smelled like cigarette smoke to me, which I thought was no longer legal in restaurants. No one present was smoking, but someone had been. I'm not a smoker and it really hurts the taste of what I'm eating or drinking if I have to smell that. I did enjoy the music which was sort of alternative and I like the chessboards on the window tables and the view from those. None of that, however, makes bad coffee worth drinking. In fairness, they did have a good many items on the menu, so maybe they are more of a late-night restaurant and I assumed incorrectly that the coffee was central.


Old City Java, Central Avenue, Old City
 Old City Java is the original downtown coffee house. Located at 109 S. Central, it has been an Old City institution for years. The coffee is strong, flavorful and fair-trade. The blend offered varies daily. The chairs and tables are worn and comfortable or shabby, depending on your perspective. There are two large rooms, so seating is rarely a problem. I say rarely because sometimes they host events - like the poetry slam I attended - that pack out the house. This is rare, however. If I had to give them a bit of a room-to-improve nudge, it would be in the speed of service. The last two times I've been there I've had to wait for probably ten minutes for my drink, even though the lines were short. I'm not sure if they are understaffed or if I've just been unlucky, but that is my experience. The confections were also pretty limited when I was there and were not extremely fresh. But, oh, the coffee!


Remedy, Jackson Street, Knoxville
 Remedy Coffee is on Jackson Street around the corner from Old City Java. That seemed like a foolish location to choose when they opened last year, but it appears to be working. The strangest thing about this coffee house is that it is operated by a church. Knoxville Life Church not only operates the coffee shop, but it is where they meet. All profits go to charitable organizations such has Habitat for Humanity. Normally, this would be enough to make me uncomfortable and I would definitely expect bad coffee. It turns out it is a very comfortable place. No one tried to convert me to anything. It is very comfortable, nicely appointed, Wi-fi enabled (as are all these establishments) and there is a book bank in which you can donate a book and take a book. It seems to me that JFG coffee used to do a similar thing just down the street. And here's the thing: the coffee I had was slow coming, but worth the wait. They can hang with anyone else in the taste competition. As a bonus, they also have Wendel Werner playing keyboard most weeks.

OK. I've delayed long enough. Here are my confessions: I like them all very much with the one exception. I could restrict myself to drinking any one of the other various offerings for the rest of my life and be happy. I go most often to Coffee and Chocolate because of convenience and I really love them, but I can't help it: Metropulse readers get this one right year after year, the best coffee is consistently Old City Java. It has a depth of flavor and a pleasing after-taste that can't be beaten.

Second best? All of the rest (except you-know-which-one). You can't go wrong with the coffee at any of them. I suspect different people would be more comfortable in one place or another, so find your favorite spot, enjoy a good cup of coffee and be grateful for this gift with which downtown Knoxville has not always been blessed.

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